904 is La Rioja Alta's icon, a Gran Reserva made only in the finest years and aged with a patience that most modern producers would find frankly alarming. The 1997 spent six years in American oak and several more in bottle before release, which means what arrives in your glass is a wine already deep into its secondary life: dried cherry, tobacco leaf, old leather, and that particular Riojan quality of cedar-inflected calm.

At nearly 30 years old, this is not a wine that needs anything from you except a good glass and a little time to open.